Tree Peonies vs. Herbaceous Peonies: Differences & Planting Guide

Peonies are the showstoppers of late spring. Yet not all peonies grow the same way. If you have ever wondered why some plants keep woody stems all winter while others vanish to stubs, you are comparing tree peonies and herbaceous peonies.

Understanding the difference matters. It shapes where you plant, how you prune, when they bloom, and how long the flowers last. With a few clear rules, both types can thrive for decades in a typical garden.

TL;DR

• Tree peonies are woody shrubs that bloom earlier and prefer some afternoon shade; herbaceous peonies die back each winter and want full sun.

• Plant herbaceous peonies shallow with eyes 1-2 inches deep; plant grafted tree peonies deeper with the graft 4-6 inches below the soil.

• Cut herbaceous peonies to the ground after frost in fall; only lightly shape tree peonies and never hard prune them to the ground.

• Both need well‑drained soil and winter chill; choose cultivars that match your hardiness zone.

• For a long peony season, mix types: woodland peonies first, followed by tree peonies, then herbaceous and intersectional hybrids.

Tree Peonies vs. Herbaceous Peonies: What Each Type Really Is

Gardeners often struggle to distinguish between these two varieties, leading to improper pruning that can accidentally remove a tree peony’s permanent woody framework. Additionally, both types face challenges with planting depth and drainage, where even a few inches of difference can result in a complete lack of blooms or fatal root rot.

Knowing these differences ensures that your garden transitions seamlessly through the seasons, allowing each plant to reach its full potential for decades of reliable beauty. By pairing this advice with the high-quality garden seeds and hardy bare roots from Firefly Farm & Mercantile, you can confidently grow robust plants that yield the massive, romantic blooms our customers love.

Herbaceous Peonies

Herbaceous peonies are herbaceous perennials, meaning stems grow in spring and die back to ground level after frost. Most garden forms come from Paeonia lactiflora and its hybrids. They are long-lived, cold-hardy, and famous as cut flowers.

Tree Peonies

Tree peonies are woody shrubs with permanent stems that leaf out each spring. They are often sold under names like, Paeonia x suffruticosa, Paeonia ostii, Paeonia rockii, or Paeonia lutea, including hybrids as well as species types. They are not trees; they are just small shrubs with large, often silken blooms borne on a woody framework.

How They Grow Across the Seasons

These seasonal life cycles enable you to predict exactly when your garden will transition from early woodland blooms to late-summer herbaceous displays. This knowledge also prevents unnecessary alarm when herbaceous varieties naturally die back to the ground in winter, while tree peonies remain standing.

• Spring: Tree peonies leaf out and set buds on last year’s wood. Herbaceous peonies send up new shoots from the crown.

• Late spring to early summer: Bloom time varies by climate, but tree peonies usually flower earlier than herbaceous types. In many zones, woodland peonies bloom first, then tree peonies, then herbaceous peonies, with Itoh (intersectional) hybrids overlapping later.

• Fall and winter: Herbaceous tops brown and are cut down. Tree peony stems persist above ground and should be left in place.

Sun, Soil, and Climate

Both types prefer fertile, moisture‑retentive, well‑drained soil. Waterlogged sites invite rot. Most herbaceous cultivars bloom best in full sun with at least 6 hours of direct light. Tree peonies handle full sun in cooler climates but appreciate light shade or afternoon shade in hotter regions, which helps the large petals last.

Hardiness varies by group and cultivar. Herbaceous peonies typically perform well in USDA Zones 3-8, while many tree peonies are hardy in Zones 4-8, though certain cultivars can be reliable in Zones 3 and higher. Always check the cultivar notes before you buy.

Planting Depth and Spacing

These technical details ensure your peonies are positioned for success, as improper depth is a leading cause of poor blooming in both types. Define two terms up front: 

• Eyes: The pink or white buds on herbaceous peony roots that become shoots.

• Graft union: The swollen notch where the tree peony’s top is grafted to a rootstock; it should be buried so the scion can form its own roots.

Take note of these planting depth and spacing guidelines:

• Plant herbaceous peony eyes 1-2 inches below the soil surface. 

• Plant grafted tree peonies with the graft union 4-6 inches below the surface to prevent the graft from being buried too deeply.

• Space tree peonies 4-5 feet apart to account for their larger mature size, while herbaceous peonies can be spaced about 3 feet apart. Poor bloom on herbaceous peonies often tracks back to being planted too deeply or in overly shady areas.

Pruning, Staking, and Yearly Care

These maintenance routines help you protect the next season’s flower buds by avoiding accidental "to-the-ground" pruning of woody tree peony stems.

• Herbaceous peonies: After a hard frost turns foliage brown, cut stems down near soil level and remove debris to limit disease. Install peony rings in early spring if you grow heavy doubles that flop.

• Tree peonies: Avoid cutting tree peonies to the ground, as they bloom on old wood. Only remove dead, weak, or crossing stems and lightly shape the plant as needed. After bloom or in very early spring, remove dead or crossing wood and lightly shape as needed. Avoid hard pruning, or you may lose next year’s flower buds.

When you're growing peonies outdoors, fertilize lightly in spring on healthy, established plants. Overdoing nitrogen gives leaves, not flowers. Deadhead spent blooms to prevent seed set and redirect energy to roots.

Quick Guide: Tree Peonies and Herbaceous Peonies Compared

This table provides a side-by-side breakdown of the critical differences between tree and herbaceous peonies, such as bloom timing, planting depth, and pruning needs. By quickly referencing these factors, you can make an informed decision on which variety best fits your garden's hardiness zone and maintenance preferences.

Looking for the perfect peony for your garden? Check out our collection of tree and herbaceous peonies, available as hardy bare-root plants, to get your garden off to a great start. Browse our selection today and find the perfect fit for your space!

Cost, Speed, and Landscape Use

Tree peonies are slower to establish and often cost more because many are grafted and take longer to produce. They repay patience with architectural structure and huge flowers that can last longer on the plant if protected from the hot afternoon sun. 

Herbaceous peonies are typically easier to find, simpler to site, and stellar in borders and as cut flowers. Both can live for many decades if planted right and left largely undisturbed.

Examples

These real-world planting scenarios help you visualize how to layer bloom times and choose the best locations based on your specific yard conditions.

Suburban Front Border 

A Zone 6 homeowner wants spring color by the porch. They plant a tree peony in a spot with bright morning light and dappled afternoon shade so blooms do not scorch. Along the walk, they add three herbaceous peonies in full sun, spaced 3.5 feet apart, planted with eyes 1.5 inches deep.

The tree peony opens first in May, followed by a wave of herbaceous blooms into June. In the fall, they cut back the herbaceous foliage after frost, but only clip a bit of dead wood from the shrub.

Windy, Clay Site 

On a high, breezy lot with heavy clay, the gardener amends planting holes with compost to improve drainage and raises the beds a few inches. They choose single to semi‑double herbaceous cultivars that need less staking and an Itoh hybrid for extended bloom. A tree peony is tucked near a fence that breaks the wind. 

The herbaceous plants are ringed for support in early spring, and all plants are watered during dry spells when buds are setting. Bloom improves in the next season, and disease pressure drops thanks to better airflow and fall cleanup.

Actionable Steps / Checklist

By adhering to these specific guidelines, you can maximize bloom production and maintain the health of both woody and herbaceous varieties year after year.

• Pick the right place: Full sun for herbaceous plants; morning sun plus light shade for tree peonies in hot zones. Avoid soggy spots and root competition from trees and large shrubs.

• Plant at correct depth: Herbaceous eyes 1-2 inches below the soil. Graft the tree peony union 4-6 inches below the soil.

• Water and feed wisely: Once established, peonies tolerate short dry spells, but bloom best with consistent moisture during bud formation.

• Support and sanitation: Install peony rings early for heavy doubles. Deadhead after bloom. In the fall, remove herbaceous foliage after frost and discard it.

• Prune by type: For herbaceous, cut to near ground after frost. For tree peony, only remove dead, weak, or crossing wood after bloom or in very early spring.

• Plan for a longer season: Combine woodland or tree peonies with early, mid, and late herbaceous cultivars and consider one Itoh hybrid.

Glossary

Familiarizing yourself with these concepts promotes precise communication and better long-term care of your garden investment.

• Herbaceous perennial: A plant that regrows from the garden base each spring and dies back to the ground in winter.

• Woody shrub: A plant with persistent above‑ground stems that live from year to year.

• Eyes: The visible buds on herbaceous peony roots that become next season’s shoots.

• Graft union: The junction where the top of a tree peony is joined to a rootstock; it should be buried to encourage its own roots.

• Hardiness zone: A climate rating that indicates typical winter lows and what plants can survive.

• Deadheading: Removing spent flowers to improve appearance and conserve plant energy.

• Botrytis Blight: A common fungal disease on peony foliage and buds that is reduced by good airflow and fall cleanup.

FAQ

Q: Why is my herbaceous peony not blooming? 

A: Common causes of herbaceous peony not blooming include planting too deep, too much shade, immature plants, or excess nitrogen. Plant eyes 1-2 inches deep and ensure at least 6 hours of sun.

Q: Can I cut my tree peony to the ground in the fall? 

A: It's not ideal to cut tree peonies to the ground in the fall. Tree peonies bloom on old wood. Only remove dead or crossing stems and lightly shape after bloom or right before growth starts.

Q: Do peonies need full sun everywhere?

A: Herbaceous peonies usually do best in full sun. Tree peonies benefit from some afternoon shade in hotter climates, so flowers last.

Q: What is the best time to plant?

A: Fall is the ideal planting time for both tree and herbaceous peonies. Container plants can also go in during spring if you keep them watered their first season.

Q: Are ants required for peony flowers to open? 

A: Ants aren't required because while they're attracted to the nectar produced by peony buds, ants don't play a role in opening the flowers. Their presence is not required for the blooms to open.

Final Thoughts

You don't have to pick a side in the tree peony vs. herbaceous peony debate. Plant each where it fits best, mind the planting depth, match pruning to the type, and enjoy a layered peony season that can stretch for weeks. Get the basics right once, and these plants will reward you for a lifetime.

Planting both tree and herbaceous peonies in your garden can create a stunning, layered bloom season that stretches for weeks. Start your peony journey with Firefly Farm & Mercantile’s quality bare-root peonies and enjoy vibrant, reliable blooms for years to come.